First, I recieved this:
Hifonics Brutus 1500D
1000X1 W RMS at 2ohm
1500X1 W RMS at 1 ohm


Then, I got this:
K03s Turbo w/ gaskets, bolts and washers.


Still to come are my
-braided stainless brake lines
-warlboro 255 inline fuel pump

[Edited on February 21, 2006 at 4:00 PM. Reason : duh]

2/21/2006 4:00:31 PM

no cool racing stickers?

2/21/2006 4:07:11 PM

those amps are overkill

2/21/2006 4:24:05 PM

the amp is for a Kicker 15L7.

2/21/2006 4:24:43 PM

yea i was about to say wtf u're replacing ur 1000/1 for a brutus!!?!?! bu t i see it's for ur l7.

2/21/2006 4:29:15 PM

There is never any overestimating the size of your dick.

2/21/2006 4:32:20 PM

whats the ko3 sport for ?


[Edited on February 21, 2006 at 5:11 PM. Reason : .]

2/21/2006 5:10:42 PM

is that turbo for the maxima or gti?

2/21/2006 5:11:27 PM

maxima

2/21/2006 5:12:19 PM

Quote :

"the amp is for a Kicker 15L7"

also horriblly overkill

2/21/2006 5:12:59 PM

what size is the motor?
hopefully its not too big or you're using 2
i mean... the pressure ratio on anything much larger than a 1.8 will be a little rediculess.

2/21/2006 5:14:15 PM

that turbo will probably run out of steam before 4000rpm on a 3.0...isn't it made for a more aggressive 1.8?

if it makes full boost (stock level) on a vw at like 1800rpm, there's no telling where it'll make it on a 3.0...off-idle?

i'm not sure that's what you're looking for unless you plan on using it to tow

2/21/2006 5:16:52 PM

JonHGuth, I don't care what you think. It is a lot, but usually that is the point.

The turbo is going on a 3.0L. I am only using one, for a few pounds of extra boost.
I know it isn't a good match, but I don't care. I have no worries/care if I blow the turbo or the motor.

2/21/2006 5:19:11 PM

well it could be a fun little car to drive around town, but it'll drive more like it has a bigger engine, not like it has a turbo...1st gear will be absolutely useless bc of the torque and gearing

just for fun, what the hell then

2/21/2006 5:22:07 PM

you know that turbo cant even supply a 1.8t with much more than 15-17psi at redline...

2/21/2006 5:26:48 PM

I'm looking for 5 to maybe 10 psi.

2/21/2006 5:29:24 PM

Quote :

"you know that turbo cant even supply a 1.8t with much more than 15-17psi at redline..."

Why is it so bad to not be making shitloads of boost at high rpm on a old ass engine that was never even designed to be turbocharged?

It seems to me that he's doing this more as a learning experience, he's not trying to make a shitload of power.

[Edited on February 21, 2006 at 5:40 PM. Reason : ]

2/21/2006 5:38:44 PM

because you're still stressing the fuck out of the motor......



this turbo is going to do nothing but make your intake charge temp higher and make you peak torque really really low in you're rpm range....

save up get another and make it a tt then it will be about right but still a little on the small side.


do yall not have any idea what a compressor map is ?

2/21/2006 5:47:20 PM

hate hate hate hate hate hate

there, I feel cool now.

2/21/2006 5:49:45 PM

Quote :

"Compressor Selection When using the formula's below, you will need to use compressor flow maps and work with the formulas until you size the compressor that will work for your application. Compressor flow maps are available from the manufacturer, do a search on the web, or use the maps I have provided. On the flow maps, the airflow requirements should fall somewhere between the surge line and the 60% efficiency line, the goal should be to get in the peak efficiency range at the point of your power peak. In this article I will walk through an example as I explain it. Engine Airflow Requirements In order to select a turbocharger, you must know how much air it must flow to reach your goal. You first need to figure the cubic feet per minute of air flowing through the engine at maximum rpm. The the formula to to this for a 4 stroke engine is: (CID × RPM) ÷3456 = CFM For a 2 stroke you divide by 1728 rather than 3456. Lets assume that you are turbocharging a 302 cubic inch engine That will redline at 6000 rpm. (302 × 6000) ÷ 3456 = 524.3 CFM The engine will flow 524.3 CFM of air assuming a 100% volumetric efficiency. Most street engines will have an 80-90% VE, so the CFM will need to be adjusted. Lets assume our 302 has an 85% VE. 524.3 × 0.85 = 445.7 CFM Our 302 will actually flow 445.7 CFM with an 85% VE. Pressure Ratio The pressure ratio is simply the pressure in, compared to the pressure out of the turbocharger. The pressure in is usually atmospheric pressure, but may be slightly lower if the intake system before the turbo is restrictive, the inlet pressure could be higher than atmospheric if there is more than 1 turbocharger in series. In that case the inlet let pressure will be the outlet pressure of the turbo before it. If we want 10 psi of boost with atmospheric pressure as the inlet pressure, the formula would look like this: (10 + 14.7) ÷ 14.7 = 1.68:1 pressure ratio Temperature Rise A compressor will raise the temperature of air as it compresses it. As temperature increases, the volume of air also increases. There is an ideal temperature rise which is a temperature rise equivalent to the amount of work that it takes to compress the air. The formula to figure the ideal outlet temperature is: T2 = T1 (P2 ÷ P1)0.283 Where: T2 = Outlet Temperature °R T1 = Inlet Temperature °R °R = °F + 460 P1 = Inlet Pressure Absolute P2 = Outlet Pressure Absolute Lets assume that the inlet temperature is 75° F and we're going to want 10 psi of boost pressure. To figure T1 in °R, you will do this: T1 = 75 + 460 = 535°R The P1 inlet pressure will be atmospheric in our case and the P2 outlet pressure will be 10 psi above atmospheric. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi, so the inlet pressure will be 14.7 psi, to figure the outlet pressure add the boost pressure to the inlet pressure. P2 = 14.7 + 10 = 24.7 psi For our example, we now have everything we need to figure out the ideal outlet temperature. We must plug this info into out formula to figure out T2: T1 = 75 P1 = 14.7 P2 = 24.7 The formula will now look like this: T2 = 535 (24.7 ÷ 14.7)0.283 = 620 °R You then need to subtract 460 to get °F, so simply do this: 620 - 460 = 160 °F Ideal Outlet Temperature This is a temperature rise of 85 °F Adiabatic Efficiency The above formula assumes a 100% adiabatic efficiency (AE), no loss or gain of heat. The actual temperature rise will certainly be higher than that. How much higher will depend on the adiabatic efficiency of the compressor, usually 60-75%. To figure the actual outlet temperature, you need this formula: Ideal Outlet Temperature Rise ÷ AE = Actual Outlet Temperature Rise Lets assume the compressor we are looking at has a 70% adiabatic efficiency at the pressure ratio and flow range we're dealing with. The outlet temperature will then be 30% higher than ideal. So at 70% it using our example, we'd need to do this: 85 ÷ 0.7 = 121 °F Actual Outlet Temperature Rise Now we must add the temperature rise to the inlet temperature: 75 + 121 = 196 °F Actual Outlet Temperature"

here is a crappy pic of the compressor map for that turbo btw this is not a k03 sport just the middle sized k03 one but still it won't be much better.






[Edited on February 21, 2006 at 6:01 PM. Reason : .]

2/21/2006 5:59:34 PM

bleh, it's useless if you're not going to plot out a maxima engine on the map

cuz I'm not going to sit here and do it for my own enjoyment

[Edited on February 21, 2006 at 6:19 PM. Reason : vg30de?]

2/21/2006 6:18:55 PM

again, don't care about the motor. Especially because I have a place to store the body now, once I blow it.

Also, peak torque is already at 2200 RPM. This will be quite fun to burn rubber in.

[Edited on February 21, 2006 at 6:25 PM. Reason : .]

2/21/2006 6:25:06 PM

doh


[Edited on February 21, 2006 at 6:39 PM. Reason : .]

2/21/2006 6:30:07 PM

there thats everything in english @ 6000 rpm (found a similar turbo in standard)



there is 2000 rpm.... so if it was diesel it would be close.


this is based off 23 lbs /min =.15cubic meters/second

feel free to check my math... but i think thats close.


[Edited on February 21, 2006 at 6:50 PM. Reason : .]

2/21/2006 6:37:56 PM

Looks about right to me.
Looks like launching will be about useless.

2/21/2006 6:53:31 PM

my question is why the hell you insist on pouring money into that maxima when your GTi is an automatic...




id be saving for a 6 speed swap, but of course id have never bought an auto slushbox in the first place...

[Edited on February 21, 2006 at 6:56 PM. Reason : spellcheck]

2/21/2006 6:56:34 PM

because I insist on keeping the warranty on the GTI as long as I can.
The auto was the only stipulation in my 0% interest no deadline loan. I could deal with that.

And, I'm not really pooring money into the maxima. I have spent (inluding stuff I just bought) about $400 on it in the last year.

I have put about $5-6000 into the GTI. I see a bit of a difference there, don't you.

2/21/2006 7:05:54 PM

You have put 6k into the GTI and it is still under warranty?

2/21/2006 7:16:25 PM

yup
new front bumper - $200
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 250/1
JL Audio 12w7
JL Audio 8w7------ $2200
Sub Box---------- $100
BFG 245/40/18 -- $750
Wheel spacers -- $150
Motegi DPK 18x8 - $600
New wheel Bolts - $50
12.1'' Front brakes- $450
11'' Rear brakes -- $380
Braided SS lines - $80
Smkd bumper lights - $30
Smkd Fender lights - $23
Boost guage/ pod - $80
rear upper brace - $55
Blitzsafe Ipod adaptor - $80

That is approx. $5200
I have more than that in it, but I can't remember it all now.

2/21/2006 7:24:41 PM

thats at 8 lbs of boost fyi

2/21/2006 7:37:37 PM

^^ ah well its good to see you didnt pay that much for those wheels...

2/22/2006 7:51:37 PM

Quote :

"you know that turbo cant even supply a 1.8t with much more than 15-17psi at redline..."

at redline chipped 1.8T are usually around 10psi. at 4-5k around 14-15. k03 is too small for anything

[Edited on February 22, 2006 at 8:01 PM. Reason : adsf]

2/22/2006 7:58:56 PM

go big

2/22/2006 8:35:41 PM

did you mean to say k03 or k03s?

2/22/2006 8:52:55 PM

his is a k03 s... which isn't too aweful much better... just more efficient due to larger a/r ratio

2/22/2006 8:58:44 PM

i know what darryl has... i meant:

Quote :

"at redline chipped 1.8T are usually around 10psi. at 4-5k around 14-15. k03 is too small for anything"

2/22/2006 9:30:04 PM

Quote :

"12.1'' Front brakes- $450 11'' Rear brakes -- $380 Motegi DPK 18x8 - $600"

you could have saved your self big $$ right there with some shit that wasnt needed

2/22/2006 9:34:07 PM

ss lines also.

some ppl on tdiclub found that the stock lines are braided kevlar

2/22/2006 9:38:31 PM

oh yeah, that too

and the spacers which wouldnt be needed save another $150, then you wouldnt need those $750 set of tires.

2/22/2006 9:41:14 PM

yeah i've become pretty impressed with the VAG group thanks to slut
and black forest industries

2/22/2006 10:05:55 PM